The Cowgirl's Cowdogs

I would like to welcome you to The Cowgirl's Cowdog's website. The Cowgirls are the original breeders of Miniature Heelers. Offering Miniature and Standard Blue Heelers, Red Heelers, Australian Cattle Dogs and Blue Merle and Tri colored Cowboy Corgi puppies!
You can see all of my puppies by clicking on the link on the left that says "Puppies and Stuff For Sale". 
Feel free to call if you have any questions. 479-252-2241. 




New Puppy Letter and Health Guarantee

Your new puppy is used to having is Retriever High Protein dry food from Tractor Supply. Our puppies have food available to them 24 hours a day. If you change your puppy’s feed or schedule please do it slowly and mix the food that it is used to along with what you want the puppy to have.

You will find included in your information  a shot and worming record. Your puppy will need 2 more 5 in 1 puppy shots at 4 week intervals from the date of it’s first shot. After that follow the advice of your vet with continuing it’s shot program. Puppies need to be wormed often. We worm our puppies every two weeks with Panacur and Pyrantel.  

If we felt like it was necessary, your new puppy has had a Capstar pill or flea spray before it was shipped to you for fleas. Because of the young age of our puppies we are unable to use chemicals on them or their mothers while they are pregnant or nursing. We work very hard to keep our dogs and puppies free from parasites, but as our animals do not live in kennels or crates they are exposed to fleas. Although this is an irritation, we feel that our dogs are much happier having their freedom to run and play and interact with each other instead of  being forced to live their lives contained in small unpleasant pens and cages.

We sell pet quality puppies and give a one year guarantee on the purchase price of your puppy (from the puppy’s birthday), against terminal life threatening genetic disorders. This guarantee is a credit only towards the price of any other puppy that is available or will come available. To fulfill our guarantee we must have documentation verifying the terminal genetic disorder from 2 veterinarians. If they agree, we will happily give you credit toward another puppy and the original puppy must be returned. This will fulfill the guarantee on the first puppy with no guarantee on the second puppy. We do not refund shipping or veterinarian costs or expenses for any reason. Our guarantee does not include; hernias, over bites, skin allergies, parasites (internal or external), coccidia, giardia, demodesis, hypoglycemia or any contagious diseases. When you receive your puppy you must take it to your veterinarian for a health check within 5 days of receiving it, you must also be able to provide documentation by your veterinarian of your puppy’s shots and worming record. If your puppy has not been kept on a consistent worming schedule or had the remaining puppy shots in it’s series or any of the above have not been fulfilled your 1 year guarantee is void, changing ownership of your puppy (selling it or giving it away) will void the guarantee. If we have asked you to pick another puppy because we question it’s health and you have refused or if we have asked you to leave the puppy longer because we think it may not be healthy so we can treat it ourselves and you refuse, your 1 year health guarantee is void. If you insist on picking your puppy up before it is 7 weeks old, it’s 1 year health guarantee is void.

If for any reason you can not keep your puppy contact us first. We will either take it back and re-home it from here or we will help you with advertising and interviews. We want you to be as comfortable with your puppy’s new home as we are with the thought of you having it now.

Payment for your puppy constitutes your agreement to this contract.

Please email us at hyppnn@netzero.com to let us know your the puppy has arrived safely.

Thank you for your business and please love your new baby for ever!

Glenda Cook
479-252-2241

You saw a puppy you are interested in and you want to know what next...

Please don't text. Give me a call or email to visit about the puppies. I can answer your questions fastest and more completely if you call. I don't take payments through the mail or credit or debit cards anymore. Fraud has become so wide spread and I am done with messing with it. I only take wire transfers or cash in person. Wire transfers are the safest way to transfer money our banks are witnesses. Most people do their deposits through their on line banking, if you don't bank on line you can take my information to your bank and they can do it for you, after you have done the deposit take a screenshot or photo of your transfer and email it to me. Send me an email with your puppy on the subject line (ex: Pepper Girl 1) and please include your contact information in the email. That way I can easily reach you when your puppy is getting old enough to leave and I can quickly see who has each puppy in a litter. If we are going to ship your puppy to you I will need the name address and phone number of who will pick your puppy up at the airport and what airport you want to ship to. I can get to most major airports with United airlines but not always the small regional airports. Shipping is $350 99% of the time on rare occasions there is a long layover between flights that will require a kenneling fee. For my records and so I have the best way to contact you it is crucial that you send me an email with your puppy on the subject line as soon as you decide you want a particular puppy. You may not feel like that is important but it is a big part of my system I am happy to answer any other questions you may have please feel free to give me a call.

All retried or enlisted military/service men and women get a $100 discount on any puppy I have available.

What Breeds Make Up the Australian Cattle Dog/Blue or Red Heeler?

So what breeds were used to come up with a Blue or Red Heeler, Australian Cattle Dog or Queensland Heeler (all the same dog by the way)? The list is a lot longer than you might think! If you start from the beginning the first dog was called a Smithfield, it had heavy hair, floppy ears, a bob tail with a dark body and a white ring around it's neck, that dog was crossed with a Native Australian Dingo, the resulting dog was crossed with a Rough Coated Collie. This dog was then crossed with a Blue Smooth Highland Collie, the resulting dog was crossed back on the Dingo again. These dogs then had some Bull Terrier added to them (about 1870), to calm this little fighter down they then added Dalmation into the mix to make a more devoted loyal dog (oops! Excuse the "mix" pun!).  In case you wondered the Australian Cattle Dog was not recognized by the American Kennel Club as a purebred breed until 1980. With that in mind...... can a Heeler have spots? Can they be pure white? Can they have a natural bob tail? Can they have curly hair? Can they be brindle? .... Sure they can... it's all in the genes!

What about the Australian Cattle Dog/Blue Heeler being a Miniature Dog? We realized many years ago that people naturally gravitated towards our smaller puppies, the smaller they were the better they liked them. We set out to keep our highest quality dogs to use in our breeding program that were smallest in size. Through the years we were able to get a smaller and smaller Cattle Dog/Heeler. They are 100% Heelers with no other breed used besides a Heeler..... just years and years of selection and breeding to get a smaller maturing dog.

All deposits and payments that are made on our puppies are non-refundable. If you decide that you can not have your puppy after you have put a deposit on it, you have credit towards any other puppy we have at anytime in the future when your situation is better again.
After you get your new puppy do not take it to a dog park, public trails, Petsmart or any place where there are other dogs and it can be exposed to germs until it has all three of the shots in it's puppy series. Remember, your new puppy is not protected from transmittable diseases until it has had all of the shots in it's series

Are Heelers Good With Kids?

Probably 90% of our puppies go to families with either small children in the home or grandkids. Heelers are great family pets, they will play with your children until they are played out! Since they are instinctual herding dogs Heelers "fixate" on their people. They want to be where ever you are and do what ever you are doing 100% of the time. They won't always like new people but they love the ones that they are raised with. Our dogs have intentionally to be bred to be companions as well as work if their family wants them to. Ninety-nine percent of our puppies will never herd anything more than their kids in the yard but all of our dogs will go to stock if they have the opportunity. We have been told by other people that they have heard that Heelers are not good family dogs. If you have a Heeler that is only bred to work cattle, they can be extremely aggressive. It is important if you are looking for a Heeler for a companion or for your children that you get a puppy from a breeder that is producing dogs with good minds. We have many puppies that have grown up and are now being used as service dogs and in nursing homes.

House Training Your Puppy

Heelers are usually very easy to house train. They are super smart, when you see your new puppy walking around looking for something that isn't there... take him outside, he is looking for a place to potty. After he wakes up from a nap or eats, he will need to go potty. Our puppies are doggy door trained so they are used to going outside to potty but they are not used to waiting to go. If they need to go they just run outside and go. They are also used to going potty on pine shavings, it is often helpful to put some shavings outside on the ground where you want him to go so when you take him out he has a place to potty that seems familiar to him. Many people will get a medium size box and put shavings in it for their puppy to use if they have to be away from home for long enough that their new puppy can't wait until they come back home. If you have to leave for several hours to go to work or do something we suggest putting your puppy in a small room in the house that does not have carpet on the floor but is still heated or cooled with his toys, bed, food, a radio and his shavings/litter box; laundry room or kitchen is usually good. Remember he is a baby so be patient, your love when he does good is much more affective than punishment when he has an accident.

Remember puppies are too young for any vaccine that has corona or lepto included in it until after they are 12 weeks old. Giving a vaccine that includes either corona or lepto can cost your puppy it's life.

We use 2 different kinds of wormer; Pyrantel Pamoate can be purchased over the counter and does not require a prescription. We use Liqui-Care for horses, we use a lot of it so we get the big bottle. The kind we use is a horse wormer, but it is all the same.

Our most commonly used wormer is Fenbendazole there are 2 ways to get it, Panacur requires a prescription or you can get Safe-Guard which is the very same thing only you can buy it over the counter.

Any puppy that has had it's first puppy shot will test positive for parvovirus, when you take it to have it's health check if there is a parvo test done your puppy will have a positive test result. The vaccine that includes parvo is a live virus, after getting the shot the puppy's immune system starts building antigens against the virus to protect it. If you get a puppy and have a parvo test run on it and it comes back negative the puppy has NOT had it's first shot, regardless of what you were told.

Here is a another question for you....... "My puppy's ear or ears have not stood up yet ..... what do I do?"

 To start with please try not to handle your new puppy's ears and encourage your children not to play with their ears. If it's ears are not up in a couple of weeks after you get it or it is 3 months old, then get some athletic tape, we find the wider is better, hold the ear up and put a circle of tape around the ear right where it bends. Puppies play very hard here before they leave and at your home after you get them.

Here is another question for you....... "I bought a male puppy from you 9 months ago and now he is barking at the neighbors and running at our yard fence at strangers.... what do I do?"

Our first question for you is did you have him neutered? When your answer is no you have not (which it will be) we are going to remind you that he is a male and old enough now to be protecting "his" territory. As a pet owner YOU have to be a responsible for the care of your pets. If you are not going to use your male puppy for breeding, have him neutered early. We will help you rehome our puppies, but don't make us sorry that we sold you one of them because you did not do your part. Cattle Dogs are wonderful smart dogs that are the BEST companions. But, because they are such smart, great dogs they will protect their home if they feel like it is their job AND if you are NOT the boss they will be. Take your puppy to puppy classes, socialize him or her well and you will be thrilled with your new friend.

For all of those people that call and want a blue eyed Cattle Dog/Heeler puppy.......

PUREBRED AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOGS DO NOT HAVE BLUE EYES. However an Australian Shepard can have blue eyes. If you have seen a dog that "looked" like a Blue Heeler that had blue eyes it most likely was part Australian Shepard. That does not mean that the blue eyed dog it is not a great dog, it just isn't a purebred Blue Heeler.

Food Aggression and Crates

Thank goodness there have only been a couple of times that this has happened in the last 10-15 years, but we have had a couple of people contact us and say that their puppy that they got from us has threatened to bite them or has bit them over their food. Every time we ask what is going on at feeding time we are horrified at the torment that the puppy has been put through to receive one of his or her basic needs for survival: FOOD. Making your puppy wait until he or she is very hungry before food is even suggested and then making it eat it from your hand or sitting back while you put the food down and then making it wait and wait, not being allowed to come to the food and eat until you allow it is twisted and if you did the same thing to a child it would be called abuse. Taking a puppy and hold him down on the ground while you are on top of him trying to "force him to submit" is insane and who ever came up with that is nuts. I don't know how any other breed of dog would react to this behavior but a Heeler will eventually hate you and we don't blame them. Our dogs have food available to them 24 hours a day, there is no reason to resent us or threaten us over their food, they are happy to see us coming to fill their feeders. Feeding time here is 2 things; 1) it is time that our dogs get attention from us, 2) having food is such a non issue that it has never occurred to them to be aggressive towards us over it. Never in the near 40 years that I have been associated with Heelers have I ever had one of my dogs even have a thought cross their mind to want to hurt me over their food. Heelers LOVE their people more than their life, this is a created behavior in a Heeler and not it's normal behavior. If for any reason this has happened with your puppy send it back to us before anything bad happens to it. We will take our puppies back no questions asked.

If you work a full time job and are only home a few hours a day and those hours are spent doing house work, school work or business and the only time you would have to devote to a puppy is on the weekend, you probably don't need a puppy. If you are planning on getting a puppy and it is going to spend most of it's time in a crate you really don't need a puppy. I hate crate training, what could be a helpful part of a puppy's training for many puppies turns into a jail or place of punishment. If your home is so nice that you feel like a puppy could damage your home and it's furnishings you don't need a puppy and you really don't need a puppy from us. Getting a puppy is like planning on having a baby, if you don't have the time or patience for a baby you don't for a puppy either. If for any reason you have gotten a puppy from us, it has destroyed your favorite chair or anything else send it back to us. Or if you have gotten a puppy from us and you are tired of trying to house break it or you don't have the time for it that you thought you were going to have send it back. We will take our puppies back no questions asked

Here is a question that we have been asked several times: "I recently adopted or found a Heeler puppy, I love it very much but it has bit someone or I am afraid it is going to. I want to keep my dog, what do I do?"

Here is a copy of an email that we recently sent to someone that contacted us with this question:

Has she bitten anyone yet? If the answer is yes, was it "heeling" in fun or biting from the front in an actual aggressive or protective mode? I am going to be honest and tell you that you will have a very hard time changing her mind. Heelers are dogs that have a natural instinctual desire to bite and the "hotter" they are in their working bloodlines the more aggressive they are and will continue to become as they mature. They will be their MOST aggressive from 1-4 years old, then start to mellow some. They will mature and become their best about 4 years old and after. By then if you lose her it will be worse than about any human loss you will ever experience. No one in your life will love you like YOUR Heeler.

All of that said, without knowing your girl personally, I am going to suggest 2 things for you to do right now:

1) Taking her out of situations that she is going to get herself in trouble in.

 If your yard is NOT fenced do so immediately. They can jump like a deer, one strand of electric 6-12 inches off of the ground on the inside of your yard fence will keep her backed away from it and one strand on top will keep her from jumping it. It will also keep the people and kids off of your fence that shouldn't be there bugging her anyway.

If someone is coming over that she either does not know OR does NOT LIKE and/or you have ANY question about how she is going to react to them, stick her in the back yard, in your bed room, get a kid gate and put in in the doorway of any room in your house that is going to be her place to be and put here there. She won't jump it, when she understands which side is her side.

Don't take her to Pet Smart EVER, it is a dog germ basket anyway, besides you don't want strange people and dogs touching your dog, that is usually insulting to a Heeler, they don't like it and I don't blame them (I am more Heeler than person! LOL!).

Get 2 things:

1) a muzzle, we use the black nylon kind with the end open (they can still eat and drink with one on), we will use them for a "time out" if we have a couple that are determined to get in a fight for some unknown reason or if we are having an unusually loud barking night.... sleep... it's a GOOD THING (thanks Martha Stewart!).

2) get an automatic bark collar (Pet Safe brand is the BEST for the money and will cost $30-60 depending where you get it. If a Heeler bites HEELING they will not make noise or growl, if they bite out of aggression they will bark or growl, if they bark or growl, they will hear a beep with no shock, if they continue they will get a very small shock, if they continue they will get a bigger shock. She will probably cry the first time or 2. That's good, you are training her to stop, the best lessons a person or animal learns is one they learn by their selves. That way you are NOT involved in this lesson, she is in the yard on her own figuring this one out. Take it off when she is with you, in the house etc. Only use it when she is out in the yard or in a situation where she may be a threat. Almost immediately when the bark collar goes on you will see an instant change in her behavior. The aggression will stop, she is smart enough to know what will happen next. Heelers are THINKERS and VERY VERY SMART. If you use a training collar that you control when the shock happens she will only associate the shock with you being there, so she will only act good around you and not on her own. The automatic bark collar will teach her to make the right decision if you are there or not.

#1 is the FENCE and restricting her from situations that will trigger her protective nature, #2 is the bark collar.

Good luck and I have no doubt that you will be relieved as soon as she has had a bark collar on for a couple of days.

My Goal

Our goal is to produce healthy well socialized puppies. To accomplish our goal our adult dogs are kept current on their shots, wormed regularly, provided with free choice good quality high protein food. They have fresh food and water available to them 24 hours a day. Their feeding schedule is when ever they are hungry. Our mommas come into the house 2-4 weeks before they are expected to have their puppies. This is their calming down time. We will worm them several times after they get in the house and before they have their puppies. We make sure that they are free from any fleas and really eating good. That way they are strong and ready to have healthy puppies and are able to make plenty of milk for them. As soon as they have their puppies we put our mommas on Amoxicillin caps morning and night for the first week. Having puppies is stressful on their bodies and we want to make sure they are healthy and recover well from giving birth. We put Sulmet in their water and after the puppies go outside at four weeks old we soak their food as well as give them dry food, their food is top dressed with Tetracycline until they leave here. We worm our puppies every week with Safeguard and every two weeks with Pyrantel Pamoate, at 6 weeks they get their first 5 way puppy shot, are wormed with Parantel again and also given a tapeworm tablet and a half of a Capstar pill. Before they leave they are tapewormed again, get another half of a Capstar pill and one more treatment of Pyrantel. Why do we put this huge investment into our mommas and their puppies? BECAUSE WHEN YOU GET A PUPPY FROM US IT IS HEALTHY. We have a quarantined facility, our puppies have never been exposed to kennel cough, parvo or any other transmittable disease.

If you have bought or reserved a puppy from us and while it is still with us if we have a uneasy feeling about a litter or puppy, instead of sending the puppy home with you or shipping it we will contact you and suggest you pick another puppy. The litter may have gotten loose stool , we may be treating them and their mother with antibiotics, they may not be eating as aggressively as we think they should or they may be a really fussy litter of puppies. What ever the reason, if this happens and you refuse to pick a different puppy you will be taking your fist pick puppy at your own risk without a 1 year health guarantee. If we make this suggestion to you it is because we are trying to protect you and your family from being disappointed, not because we want your puppy for ourselves. Believe me, we can keep any puppy we want to before we make the litter available. We have plenty of then, we don't need yours.

You saw a puppy you are interested in and you want to know what next...

Please don't text. Give me a call or email to visit about the puppies. I can answer your questions fastest and more completely if you call. I don't take payments through the mail or credit or debit cards anymore. Fraud has become so wide spread and I am done with messing with it. I only take wire transfers or cash in person. Wire transfers are the safest way to transfer money our banks are witnesses. Most people do their deposits through their on line banking, if you don't bank on line you can take my information to your bank and they can do it for you, after you have done the deposit take a screenshot or photo of your transfer and email it to me. Send me an email with your puppy on the subject line (ex: Pepper Girl 1) and please include your contact information in the email. That way I can easily reach you when your puppy is getting old enough to leave and I can quickly see who has each puppy in a litter. If we are going to ship your puppy to you I will need the name address and phone number of who will pick your puppy up at the airport and what airport you want to ship to. I can get to most major airports with United airlines but not always the small regional airports. Shipping is $350 99% of the time on rare occasions there is a long layover between flights that will require a kenneling fee. For my records and so I have the best way to contact you it is crucial that you send me an email with your puppy on the subject line as soon as you decide you want a particular puppy. You may not feel like that is important but it is a big part of my system I am happy to answer any other questions you may have please feel free to give me a call.

PAYMENTS

I am now taking wire transfers as payment for puppies and shipping or deposits. This will allow me to ship your puppies to you much faster as most transfers happen within 24 hours as apposed to days to get payment in the mail. I take cash if you come and pick your puppy up in person. No checks or credit cards. My preferred payment if you are not coming to pick your puppy up is a wire transfer, it is the most secure and we both have our banks as witnesses as to who paid what and cuts out the postal service as a reason why a deposit does not arrive when I am holding puppies. I don't put my account or routing numbers on emails or texts you will have to call for my information. A payment made by your bank to a third party that requires me to put my account and routing number on their website is not a transfer from your bank to mine. I will not accept a payment that requires me to log in with my email and give my personal account and routing numbers, only a wire transfer from your bank to my bank is safe and acceptable. Sorry for any inconvenience but I will not jeopardize my security by putting my personal account and routing numbers in any email or on any website. I will not take any form of credit card. Credit cards are the new way to steal things and I will not lose any more puppies nor will I be forced to pay for the shipping for my puppy to be stolen from me with a charge back.  It is a relief to me when someone refuses to get a puppy if they can not use a credit card, that means I weeded out another person that was planning on stealing one of my puppies with a charge back.

If you are a veteran and you are working with the Semper Fi Foundation to get a service dog and you are interested in one of my puppies let me know. I have worked with them and am familiar with what I need to do. If you are a veteran you may want to contact the VA or Semper Fi Foundation to see if you qualify for a puppy/service dog through them.

    Many of "The Cowgirls Puppies" are service dogs for our returning service men and women that have PTSD. I have worked with The Semper Fi Foundation in the past to get my puppies in the hands of service men however their system is very slow. If you or have a family member that has been in our armed forces and need a service dog for emotional &/or physical support let me know I will give you a discount instead of going through Semper Fi so we can get you a puppy much faster. All retried or enlisted military/service men and women get a $100 discount on any puppy I have available.